The Departure of a Missionary Legacy
On a bright spring day in April 1838, a crowd gathered along the banks of the River Thames to bid farewell to the missionary ship Camden as it set sail for the South Seas. The Reverend John Williams, a seasoned Polynesian evangelist, stood on the deck, waving to the multitudes who had come to witness this momentous occasion. Alongside him were ten fellow missionaries, eight missionary wives, and Williams’ eldest son and his new bride – a small but determined band, embarking on a journey to extend the reach of Christianity across the islands of the Pacific.
The departure of the Camden marked a pivotal chapter in the colonial histories of the Cook Islands. For nearly two decades, Williams had been a driving force behind the London Missionary Society’s evangelical campaigns in this remote archipelago, working tirelessly to “civilize” and “redeem” its indigenous inhabitants. Now, equipped with a purpose-built vessel, he set out to expand his missionary empire, forging new outposts of Christian influence across the region.
As the Camden’s sails filled with the wind, the crowd on the riverbanks erupted in cheers and hymns, bidding the ship and its occupants a fervent farewell. This poignant scene, captured in vivid color by the artist George Baxter, has come to symbolize the complex entanglement of faith, empire, and cultural transformation that defined the Cook Islands’ colonial experience.
Missionary Enterprises in the South Seas
John Williams’ missionary career had begun in 1817, when he first set sail for the Pacific aboard the Duff. Over the next two decades, he would become a legendary figure, earning the moniker “Apostle of Polynesia” for his tireless efforts to spread Christianity across the islands. His 1837 publication, “A Narrative of Missionary Enterprises in the South Sea Islands,” had become a sensation, captivating British audiences with tales of dramatic conversions, the destruction of “idol gods,” and the establishment of thriving Christian communities.
Williams’ experiences in the Cook Islands were a central focus of his celebrated book. He described his initial encounter with the island of Aitutaki in 1823, where he found the inhabitants “living in the darkness of heathenism” and presided over the ritual burning of their traditional idols. Inspired by this triumph, Williams went on to establish successful missions on the islands of Rarotonga and Rurutu, converting thousands to the Christian faith.
The Messenger of Peace, a schooner that Williams himself had overseen the construction of on Rarotonga, became a symbol of his ingenious and ambitious approach to missionary work. Utilizing local resources and expertise, he had transformed the island into a hub of Christian activity, with the Messenger of Peace serving as a vital link to neighboring islands and a conduit for the spread of the gospel.
Williams’ narrative emphasized the dramatic transformation of the Cook Islands, painting a picture of a region rescued from the “darkness” of paganism and ushered into the light of civilization. Yet, as with many missionary accounts of the era, his portrayal often obscured the complex realities of cultural exchange and the tensions that arose as indigenous communities grappled with the profound disruptions wrought by colonial intrusion.
Rarotonga: A Missionary Stronghold
The island of Rarotonga, in many ways, exemplified the triumphs and challenges of the missionary enterprise in the Cook Islands. When Williams first arrived in 1823, he encountered a society deeply rooted in its traditional Polynesian beliefs and practices. Undaunted, he set about establishing a permanent mission station, working closely with the local ruler, Makea Pori, to secure land and resources for the endeavor.
The construction of the Messenger of Peace on Rarotonga, chronicled in vivid detail by Williams, highlighted the resourcefulness and ingenuity of the missionary project. Drawing on the expertise of local canoe builders, Williams and his Rarotongan collaborators fashioned a seaworthy vessel using only indigenous materials and tools. This collaborative effort not only facilitated the spread of Christianity but also demonstrated the potential for cultural exchange and the integration of traditional knowledge within the missionary framework.
However, the missionary presence on Rarotonga was not without its tensions and disruptions. The sheer scale of the endeavor, which encompassed both church-building and ship-building projects, placed considerable demands on the local population, at times straining resources and provoking resentment. Moreover, the introduction of new diseases, such as the devastating smallpox outbreak of 1823, had a catastrophic impact on the island’s indigenous inhabitants, undermining the very communities the missionaries sought to “redeem.”
Despite these challenges, the Rarotongan mission under Williams’ leadership remained a resounding success, becoming a hub for the dissemination of Christian teachings throughout the region. The Messenger of Peace played a pivotal role in this expansionist agenda, transporting Polynesian missionaries to distant islands and establishing new outposts of evangelical influence.
Samoa and Beyond: The Missionary Imperative
As the Camden sailed away from the shores of England, its ultimate destination was the Samoan archipelago, where Williams had identified a pressing need for missionary intervention. Drawing on the reports of Polynesian evangelists who had already established a presence in Samoa, he painted a picture of a region ripe for conversion, with many inhabitants “already abandoning their old practices” and “awaiting the arrival of missionaries.”
Williams’ vision for Samoa was part of a broader, ambitious plan to extend the reach of Christianity across the South Pacific. In his writings, he outlined a sweeping agenda that encompassed not only the Cook Islands and Samoa but also the Marquesas, the New Hebrides, New Caledonia, and beyond. Undeterred by the vast distances and challenging terrain, Williams saw the region as a vast frontier, ready to be claimed for the cause of Christian civilization.
The Camden’s voyage was not merely a spiritual endeavor; it also carried strategic and geopolitical implications. Williams recognized the potential for missionary work to advance British imperial interests, noting the value of the Pacific islands as sources of natural resources, trading outposts, and strategic naval bases. His appeals to the British government for a dedicated missionary vessel were, in part, driven by this broader vision of colonial expansion and economic exploitation.
Commemoration and Contestation
The departure of the Camden became a subject of immense public fascination in Britain, with the event generating widespread media coverage and a proliferation of commemorative materials. George Baxter’s vibrant color print, “The Departure of the Camden, Missionary Ship,” captured the spirit of the occasion, depicting the vessel setting sail amid a crowd of well-wishers and the flutter of flags bearing the emblems of the London Missionary Society.
The print, along with Baxter’s other illustrations for Williams’ book, played a crucial role in shaping the public’s perception of the missionary enterprise. By evoking themes of heroism, sacrifice, and the triumph of Christian civilization, these images helped to cement the legacy of John Williams and his fellow evangelists as intrepid pioneers, bravely carrying the light of the gospel to the far-flung corners of the globe.
Yet, the commemorative narratives surrounding the Camden’s departure also obscured the complex realities of the missionary project. As scholars have noted, these visual and textual accounts often portrayed indigenous populations in dehumanizing ways, casting them as passive recipients of colonial benevolence or as obstacles to be overcome through the imposition of Christian faith and European cultural norms.
The tragic fate that ultimately befell John Williams, who was clubbed to death by the inhabitants of Erromango during a subsequent voyage, further complicated the legacy of the missionary enterprise. His death was swiftly transformed into a powerful symbol of martyrdom, elevating Williams to the status of a “Missionary Martyr” and reinforcing the narrative of noble sacrifice in the service of a divine calling.
Legacies and Reflections
The history of the Cook Islands’ engagement with missionary Christianity is a complex and multifaceted one, intertwined with the broader dynamics of colonial expansion, cultural transformation, and the struggle for indigenous sovereignty. The departure of the Camden, with its powerful symbolic resonance and its tangible impact on the region, serves as a poignant entry point into this intricate narrative.
As the Cook Islands Library and Museum continues to preserve and interpret the cultural heritage of these islands, it must grapple with the legacy of the missionary enterprise, acknowledging both its profound transformative effects and the complex ethical and political questions it raises. By critically examining the narratives that have shaped the public’s understanding of this history, the museum can provide visitors with a more nuanced and inclusive perspective, one that honors the resilience and agency of the indigenous communities who navigated the turbulent waters of colonial encounter.
Through educational programs, public events, and the curation of its impressive collection of artifacts and archival materials, the Cook Islands Library and Museum can play a vital role in fostering a deeper appreciation for the region’s cultural traditions, while also encouraging critical reflection on the lasting impact of missionary activity and colonial rule. By doing so, it can help to ensure that the legacies of the past are not merely celebrated or mourned, but actively engaged with, in the service of a more just and equitable future.
